Installing building trim on gable overhang

The front of my home workshop has a two-foot overhang. This L-profile trim wraps from the roof, over the edge. This profile covers the edge framework.

This trim is installed while up on the roof and using a ladder. I have a stand-off attachment that holds the ladder out from the wall of the building.

Unfortunately the stand-off attachment does not hold the ladder out far enough. The two-foot overhang makes ladder work a bit challanging.

I had to modify the ladder standoff attachment to install this trim.

The process of installing this trim is fairly straightforward. The trim is an ‘L’ shape.

Color options

My workshop building has two colors. The colors are a burnt-red roof and cream colored siding.

This corner trim on the front and rear is the same color as the roof. The gutters on the sides are also red. All of this trim will drop down over the edge of the roof by about 5″ all around.

Being the same color as the roof makes it look thick and substantial. My wife picked out the color selections and I think she did a great job.

In some building orders the corner trim and doors are outlined in contrasting colors. However, this is not our preferance.

The color choice was an option when ordering the building. The building manufacturer said I could order every piece of the building in a different color if I wanted. Very briefly I entertained a tie-dye color theme.

Trim is slow to install

I have been taking my sweet time installing the trim and other finishing touches on my home workshop.

Once my workshop had a roof and was in the dry my focus has been more on using the shop instead of finishing these somewhat pesky details.

I was warned by my salesperson that trim is often slow to get installed by diy’ers. They procrastinate and put it off.

I am a fine example of this procrastination pattern.

Installing the trim

I leaned the 12′ long trim pieces against the edge of the roof and then climbed up a ladder onto the roof. I was then able to pull up the trim pieces onto the roof.

I had to work with one piece at a time. Otherwise the trim will slide down the pitch of the roof.

Knowing this was likely a possibility I had the foresight to position my tools in place beforehand.

My tools for this project include…

  • A cordless drill.
  • Self-tapping color-matched screws (provided by the building manufacturer).
  • Tennis shoes with good gripping soles.
  • A few spring clamps.

Unclear directions

One unclear point, of many, in the installation manual is how to exactly position the trim. In this case specifically how low to position the trim in relation to the edge of the roof where it meets the gutter.

These are the type of assembly details that frustrate me. I easily understand the big-picture items its the smaller details not covered in the directions that take up lots of time and energy.

I will eventually be installing gutters. Knowing this I clamped the piece of trim in position. I got off the ladder and mentally figured out a logical point where the trim should come down to.

This ground level assessment is really just making an educated guess.

Installation from the roof

I installed one side at a time and there are two trim pieces per side. The two pieces overlap each other.

The first piece to install was the one lowest on the roof. Think of this as roof shingles where the lowest ones are installed first and higher ones overlap lower ones.

I carefully pulled the trim to a taught not tight position. Then I drove in one self-tapping screw.

I moved down the piece of trim and drove in another screw. These two screws hold the piece in place.

Time to get back off the ladder and verify everything looks OK before putting in a few more screws. It all looked just fine.

I then began on the second piece. I pulled it up onto the roof and put it in position.

I ensured to bring it up high to the peak. There is a cover that fits over the top two trim pieces from each side. I had to ensure I was high enough that this trim piece would overlap properly.

I drove in the two screws just like I did for the first piece. Again I got off the roof to verify the positioning looked OK.

Now I was able to finish securing with a few more screws. Each piece has about four-six screws. Since there is some overlap, some screws share double-duty as they go through both pieces of trim.

The external screws provided by the manufacturer have little rubber bushings. This forms a seal when the screw is driven in to keep out water.

I repeated these installation steps on the other side of the roof.

Installation from a ladder

These screws held the trim from the top of the roof only. I was not too keen on leaning over the edge of the roof to drive in screws into the face of this trim or the top peak piece.

This part had to be done from a ladder. My ladder has a standoff attachment. This holds the ladder out away from the wall.

However, my two-foot overhang is too long for the ladder standoff attachment so I had to construct an extension for it.

Top center piece of trim

Each side of the trim meets at the top peak of the roof. An oddly shaped piece of trim covers all this up.

Its in the shape of a roof peak, a front face and it wraps underneath the newly installed trim.

Getting it to fit over the trim was difficult. It seems to be about one-quarter inch too short.

I decided to first drive in the roof screws and then the face screws. I am figuring the roof is more important than the face.

It does not seem to line up correctly at the top. I will need to revisit this to make a water-tight seal.

Since this is just an overhang the workshop interior is not affected. I will probably put this repair off for quite some time.

Bring it all together

The front now has the four L-shaped pieces of trim along with the top center cap (mostly) installed.

Well actually I still have to screw in the trim from the front as I got caught in the rain. Not too good of an idea to be on a ladder in the rain.

I finish this another day… whenever that is.

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